Norwegian Winter Highs and Lows
(Co-written by both Mark and Betsy: guess who wrote what parts; I bet you can.)
The natural beauty of Norway continues to amaze us. Last week we had the opportunity to travel to Tromsø, well within the Arctic Circle, where Betsy taught a workshop to future teachers called “Reader Come Home: Literacy in the Digital Age.” Also joining us on the trip was our son who met us in Oslo before the three of us flew north some 700 miles. Snow fell during much of our visit and at times, the cold wind tried to carry us away. Walking was made safer by using cleats that attach to the bottom of our boots – particularly down by the water where the cold rains of the previous week had frozen over existing snow. During our exploration of the area, we learned about the Sami and their culture, and took a boat ride through the fjords surrounding Tromsø, learning about the importance of fishing along the 51,478 miles of Norwegian coastline. With the cold, we experienced ice literally forming around the boat as we slowly eased out of the Ramfjorden after seeing three white-tailed sea eagles.
The second night we were there, we went dog sledding out on the Kvaløya Island, Norway’s fifth largest island. Hard blowing snow accompanied us as we drove some 45 minutes away from Tromsø and up into the surrounding mountains. When we arrived at our destination just below Steinskartinden, a 2,650 high mountain, we were given gear needed to keep us warm while sledding. We were also introduced to our dog teams. Betsy and John’s dog team was part of the Harry Potter family with names like Dumbledore, Lupin, McGonagall, and Hermione. There was also a Lord of the Rings dog team. Betsy fell in love with the literary-named huskies that eagerly pulled our sleds on the tundra. The first half of our 20-kilometer trek was spent plowing through fresh snow with snow blowing around our fur lined hoods. About halfway through, the snow stopped and a near full moon high in the sky blanketed the snow with light. As we started our return trip, we could see what initially looked like a long, thin cloud stretching across the northwestern part of the sky. Ever so slowly, that cloud started shifting downwards while gaining a slight greenish hue. For the next half hour, we enjoyed a spectacular northern light display that we will remember for many years.
On our last day in Tromsø, Betsy didn’t feel particularly well. Mark called the national health-line number to seek advice. Not an emergency, he was instructed to go to a local grocery store and buy the equivalent of aspirin and Tylenol. Unlike in the States, there are no over the counter pain relievers (this is pretty much true of many over the counter medical products. As such, you must ask the attendant checking you out for the items. He or she then provides you with a receipt with a bar code that you take to a vending machine near the entrance to the store. Once scanned, the machine dispenses the item(s). Incidentally, this is also true with tobacco related products like cigarettes and snuss, what we call snuff.
The next morning all seemed well, and we traveled by plane back to Oslo and were eating lunch when Betsy started feeling unwell again. Mark called the same national number and was advised to take Betsy to a nearby legevakt (emergency clinic) where Betsy was expected and quickly evaluated. Long story made short, a very efficient system elevated her condition and admitted her to the clinic. She was then transferred to an emergency hospital by ambulance and within two more hours rushed to another hospital with doctors specializing in urologic care. Treatment for a severe bacterial infection, caused by a 10mm kidney stone blocking the kidney, was started. Once the infection is resolved with antibiotics, Betsy will have surgery to remove the stone.
As we understand, the Norwegian Health Care system is one of the best in the world. It also appears to be extremely equitable with 100% of Norwegian residents having access to public health care (US vs Norwegian Health Care). While no health care system is perfect, it is our observation that hospital staff in Norway seem less stressed and overworked than their counterparts in the US. The nurses were amazing, many of them were first- and second-generation immigrants, whose families were refugees from countries like the Congo, Brazil, Somalia, who were well educated in the Norwegian public school and university school systems, graduating with nursing degrees with no student loans.
And while it’s snowing outside our apartment at the moment, we know the days are getting longer. Since winter solstice, we have gained nearly six hours of light. Halden and Brevard will both have 12 hours of daylight on March 20th (spring equinox). That said, in the next three months, Halden will gain nearly another six hours of daylight (totaling 18 hours of daylight) to Brevard’s 15:31 hours.
We also know a good way to heal and spend winter in Norway is to curl up with a Norwegian crime novel from writer Joe Nesbø while sitting in a warm, safe apartment and watching it snow outside. The peace-loving Norwegians’ obsession with reading grisly murder mysteries is a strange irony in this fascinating culture.
